Whitcomb Side-Rod Gas Mechanical Locomotive Kit
Parts Required: 1 Bachmann N-Scale 0-4-0 Dockside Locomotive
1 Micro-Trains # 1027Couplers
European couplers are included
Your choice of paint and decals
Before we get started, run the Bachmann 0-4-0. Make sure it runs well, as what we are going to do to it will void all warranties. Test fit all parts before gluing. Check to be sure you have received all parts (See parts diagram on last page). Railway Recollections guarantees the quality of this kit. Please contact us if there is any problem. Slightly warped parts can be straightened by immersing them in hot (200 deg. F) water for a minute, and then gently bending back into shape. Immerse in cold water to lock in the new shape. Please read all instructions first and familiarize yourself with the parts.
1. The 0-4-0 chassis needs to be modified.
a. Remove the weight, boiler and cab, by removing the screw on the underside of the loco between the cylinders. Lift the front of the boiler and push backwards..
b. The cylinders will be hanging from the wheels by the main rods. We have to remove the cylinders and main rods, by removing the screw on the main driver. Remove the main rods and cylinders. Reposition the connecting rod and re-install the screw. (Note: Do not over-tighten, or you will pop out the driver center) See Fig. 1
c. Front and rear couplers need to be removed. Cut off with a razor saw and file flat. See Fig. 1
d. Cut off nubs on side of motor housing. (See Fig. 1)
2. Clean up all parts, removing flash, and clean the windows out of the cab. Slightly round the top edges of the frame.
3. The mechanism should snap into the frame. The ends of the cylinder mounts should be filed slightly to fit and the tops should be filed on an angle. Test fit the mechanism into the frame.
4. Drill and tap the holes for the couplers. Do not install the couplers yet.
5. (See Fig. 2 for steps 5 to 10) Remove the mechanism from the frame. The cab weights fit onto the frame. The flange on the bottom of the weights fit into the frame to locate the weights (See Fig. 3). The weights will be on each side of the motor. Be sure to locate the weights towards the front of the slot. Test fit the weights, then remove the mechanism and glue the weights in place.
6. The cab fits over the weights and will snap on. To remove the cab, gently pry on the bottom of the sides of the cab and gently pull up. The styrene for the roof is slightly rounded on its width. Test fit the styrene to see how it fits. It is slightly longer than it is wide. Use 5 minute epoxy to attach it, sparingly applied to the top of the cab. Carefully align the styrene and clean off any excess.
7. The hood needs the hole for the stack drilled out
with a 1/8" drill bit so it is about 1/8 of an inch deep. Glue stack in place. The hood weight should be glued into place with the notch of the weight at the rear bottom to clear the worm gear.
8. Headlight 1 goes on to the hood in front of the stack on the base. Headlight 2 goes on the back of the cab in between the windows.
9. The frame weights can be installed now. (See Fig. 4) Do not glue the rear weight in place. (If the rear weight is glued in place, it will not allow the mechanism to be installed or removed) The front weight can be glued in place. Install the mechanism now. Put the rear weight in place at the rear coupler. Screw the coupler on, and it will hold the weight in place. Install the front coupler.
10. The steps can now be installed under the cab doors.
11. Painting: Remove the mechanism and wash the completed model in warm soapy water. If possible, use a soft brush such as a toothbrush to scrub the parts. This removes casting residues and finger oils. Dry thoroughly. Use a lacquer based primer such as Floquil or Accupaint (not Accuflex) if possible. Allow the primer to dry at least 24 hours. Then paint using your final colours, and decal once dry.